1.1 Ideal running pressures: 23 psi, all tyres/compounds.
1.2 Ideal running temperatures: 90 – 110 degrees, all tyres/compounds.
1.3 Graining/blistering – These 2015 tyres are a pig to drive if the temperatures get outside the operating window. Blistering occurs at higher temperatures, graining more at low temperatures. Find the compound that keeps you closest to 100 degs for your main stints.
1.4 Wear – The tyres start to go off more quickly (a “slippery slope” rather than a “cliff”) at 94%. All the compounds have this characteristic and the gaps between compounds in both performance and wear rates are evenly spread.
The high revvers will need full fuel most races. Changing gear by the end of the “red” rev range, coast-braking, high engine-braking levels and short-changing are ways of saving fuel.
Will be allowed, the FtF app features an embedded version of the ACRL DRS app to catch anyone who uses it when over a second behind the guy in front. The best way to use this app is simply to always wait for the BEEP & react quickly to the “angry” BEEPs you get when using DRS illegally.
4 ERS Guide
4.1 MGU-K Deployment Modes
- Charging – Only used to save charge before a qualifying hotlap
- Bal Low – Low charge usage, best for tracks with short straights/lots of corners
- Bal Hi – As Bal Low but uses more charge, like Bal Low more effective at lower speeds
- Top Speed – Low charge usage, high speed tracks
- Overtake – High charge usage, high speed tracks – it’s Top Speed on steroids
- Hotlap – Balanced but high energy usage throughout rev/speed range
Qualifying – Use hotlap on most tracks, but Spa will run out of allowed charge by Stavelot using Hotlap or Overtake modes.
Race – if in doubt, use Top Speed throughout the race and a dab of the KERS button when necessary. For those who want to manage charge and get the most out of it:-
- Hi speed tracks – Switch between Overtake and Top Speed (use Bal Hi/Low if Top Speed won’t recharge)
- Medium speed tracks – Bal Hi, Overtake and Top Speed are probably the best (use Top Speed to recharge or Bal Low if that fails).
- Low speed tracks – Manage between Bal Low and Bal Hi and even Hotlap (use Top Speed if Bal Low won’t recharge)
4.2 MGU-K Recovery (Levels 0 – 10) Low levels give more stability under braking, but most people can cope in this version of the SF15-T with the higher levels 7-10. Hence, the recharging rate has been reduced from the original Kunos levels by around 20%.
4.3 Engine Braking (Levels 0 – 13) This is a matter of preference. 13 gives you slightly better fuel consumption, but also makes the rear less stable when braking. However, it’s not that bad, so I think most will run close to the default level of 10.
4.4 MGU-H Battery/Motor Mode Set this to “Motor” – end of, you should never need to use battery – one thing less to think about!
5. Changelog (from Kunos’ data values):-
- Tyre temps/wear fixed and balanced so that high friction tracks will favour harder compounds whilst low friction tracks favour softer compounds. Gaps in performance/wear between compounds are evened out.
- Blistering/graining tweaked to make them even more prevalent.
- All compounds run best at 23 psi and 90 – 110 degrees.
- Aero scales line-up much better – ie: If you keep rear wing roughly 2 or 3 higher than front it will be balanced. Drag curve is slightly flattened to allow for the possible use of higher settings.
- More grip, but less downforce and less traction – a lot more fun.
- Stiffer, less-wallowy suspension.
- Kerb stability improved dramatically.
- Speed-sensitive power steering reduced – should feel a bit meatier in low-speed corners.
- DRS works properly (on Kunos car it only gives you 3-4kph extra). Also DRS auto-deactivates above 4G lateral force.
- Fuel heavier (car slightly lighter) – emphasises difference between full/empty tank in a more realistic manner. Fuel tank a bit larger so there is no excuse for running out.
- Turbo-lag reduced.
- Suspension scales all line-up properly – all springs scales 10, ARB front 30, rear 10 and roll values behind the numbers are exactly 3x as much at front.
- Tyre change/repair times sped up & fuelling slowed down for league purposes.
- Underside colliders raised to allow better steering on grass and in gravel. Car can still bottom-out.