1.1 Ideal running pressures: 25 psi, all tyres/compounds.
1.2 Ideal running temperatures: 90 – 110 degrees, all tyres/compounds.
The high revvers will need full fuel most races. Changing gear by the end of the “red” rev range, coast-braking, high engine-braking levels and short-changing are ways of saving fuel.
Will be allowed, the ACRL DRS app will be used to catch anyone who uses it when over a second behind the guy in front. The best way to use this app is simply to always wait for the BEEP & react quickly to the “angry” BEEPs you get when using DRS illegally.
4 ERS Guide
4.1 MGU-K Deployment Modes
- Charging – Only used to save charge before a qualifying hotlap
- Bal Low – Low charge usage, best for tracks with short straights/lots of corners
- Bal Hi – As Bal Low but uses more charge, like Bal Low more effective at lower speeds
- Linear – It’s a toned down “Hotlap” mode with balanced, medium energy usage
- Top Speed – Low charge usage, high speed tracks
- Overtake – High charge usage, high speed tracks – it’s Top Speed on steroids
- Hotlap – Balanced but high energy usage throughout rev/speed range
Qualifying – Use hotlap on most tracks, but Spa will run out of allowed charge by Stavelot using Hotlap or Overtake modes.
Race – if in doubt, use Top Speed throughout the race and a dab of the KERS button when necessary. For those who want to manage charge and get the most out of it:-
- Hi speed tracks – Switch between Overtake and Top Speed (use Bal Hi/Low if Top Speed won’t recharge)
- Medium speed tracks – Bal Hi, Overtake, Linear and Top Speed are probably the best (use Top Speed to recharge or Bal Low if that fails).
- Low speed tracks – Manage between Bal Low, Bal Hi, Linear and even Hotlap (use Top Speed if Bal Low won’t recharge)
4.2 MGU-K Recovery (Levels 0 – 10) Low levels give more stability under braking, but most people can cope in this car with the higher levels 7-10.
4.3 Engine Braking (Levels 0 – 13) This is a matter of preference. 13 gives you slightly better fuel consumption, but also makes the rear less stable when braking. However, it’s not that bad, so I think most will run close to the default level of 10.
4.4 MGU-H Battery/Motor Mode Set this to “Motor” – end of, you should never need to use battery – one thing less to think about!
5. Changelog (from Kunos’ data values):-
- Tyre temps/wear fixed and balanced so that high friction tracks will favour harder compounds whilst low friction tracks favour softer compounds. Gaps in performance/wear between compounds are evened out.
- All compounds run best at 25 psi and 90 – 110 degrees.
- Aero scales line-up much better – ie: If you keep rear wing roughly 2 or 3 higher than front it will be balanced. Rear drag curve is slightly flattened to allow for the possible use of higher settings.
- More grip, less traction, better braking. Quicker than the Kunos car.
- Kerb stability improved dramatically.
- Speed-sensitive power steering reduced – should feel a bit meatier in low-speed corners.
- DRS works properly (on Kunos car it only gives you 3-4kph extra). Also DRS auto-deactivates above 4G lateral force.
- Fuel heavier (car slightly lighter) – emphasises difference between full/empty tank in a more realistic manner. Fuel tank a bit larger so there is no excuse for running out.
- Turbo-lag reduced.
- Suspension scales all line-up properly – all springs scales 10, ARB front 30, rear 10 and physics values behind the numbers are exactly 3x as much at front.
- Similar with ride height scales, plus rear ride-height fine adjustment possible.
- Car raised so it’s not running on its dampers.
- Underside colliders raised to allow better steering on grass and in gravel. Car can still bottom-out.
- Tyre change/repair times sped up & fuelling slowed down for league purposes.
Mid-Season 9/3/18 Facelift – Changelog (It’s really an SF71 now – without the halo)
- All 7 compounds now available from Hypersoft to Super-Hard, each one works well on the right track. ie:- Super-hards fine at Suzuka, Hypersofts perfect at Abu Dhabi.
- More grip/less downforce – has made thermals a bit more consistent.
- Tyre wear increased slightly to maintain the 1 or 2 stop dilemma.
- Slightly more braking power.
- About 3% increase in torque/engine power and final ratio adjusted to stop it over-revving at end of straights as top speed slightly higher.
- Reduced suspension repair time.