1.1 Ideal running pressures: 29 psi, all tyres/compounds.
1.2 Ideal running temperatures – within 10 degrees of:
- 100 – UltraSofts
- 105 – SuperSofts
- 110 – Softs
- 115 – Mediums
- 120 – Hards
The high revvers will need full fuel most races. Changing gear by the end of the “red” rev range, coast-braking, high engine-braking levels and short-changing are ways of saving fuel.
Will be allowed, the ACRL DRS app will be used to catch anyone who uses it when over a second behind the guy in front. The best way to use this app is simply to always wait for the BEEP & react quickly to the “angry” BEEPs you get when using DRS illegally.
4 ERS Guide
4.1 MGU-K Deployment Modes
- 0. Charging – Only used to save charge before a qualifying hotlap.
- 1. Economy – lowest ERS usage for high top speed tracks where you are on the throttle more.
- 2. Low – suited to high speed tracks or to replenish MGU-K on lower speed tracks.
- 3. Medium – Somewhere in the middle.
- 4. Medium-High – Bridging the gap further.
- 5. High – used on tracks with lots of corners and fewer long straights.
- 6. Party Time – your quali mode (on all but the longest tracks) and equivalent to the Kunos “Hotlap” mode. Highest energy output from MGU-K, but quite tricky enrate.
Qualifying – use the highest mode that does not empty the lap allowance, On a lot of tracks this is “6 – Party Time”, but at Spa it will probably even be as low as mode 1 – Economy.
- Hi speed tracks – Economy mode will see you good on any high speed track, switch to other modes for short stints or use KERS to supplement power. Make sure you stay within the lap allowance.
- Medium speed tracks – Use 3, 4, 5, it’s your choice now.
- Low speed tracks – High if you can get away with it, otherwise modes 3, 4 should be OK.
Note that none of the modes are compromised at high speed any more, the higher m
4.2 MGU-K Recovery (Levels 0 – 10) Low levels give more stability under braking, but most people can cope in this car with the higher levels 7-10.
4.3 Engine Braking (Levels 0 – 13) This is a matter of preference. 13 gives you slightly better fuel consumption, but also makes the rear less stable when braking. However, it’s not that bad, so I think most will run close to the default level of 10.
4.4 MGU-H Battery/Motor Mode Set this to “Motor” – end of, you should never need to use battery – one thing less to think about!
5. Changelog (from Kunos’ data values):-
- Tyre temps/wear fixed and balanced so that high friction tracks will favour harder compounds whilst low friction tracks favour softer compounds. Gaps in performance/wear between compounds are evened out.
- Aero scales line-up much better – ie: If you keep rear wing roughly 2 or 3 higher than front it will be balanced. Rear drag curve is slightly flattened to allow for the possible use of higher settings.
- More grip, less traction, better braking. Quicker than the Kunos car.
- Kerb stability improved dramatically.
- Speed-sensitive power steering reduced – should feel a bit meatier in low-speed corners.
- DRS works properly (on Kunos car it only gives you 3-4kph extra). Also DRS auto-deactivates above 4G lateral force.
- Fuel heavier (car slightly lighter) – emphasises difference between full/empty tank in a more realistic manner. Fuel tank a bit larger so there is no excuse for running out.
- Turbo-lag reduced.
- Suspension scales all line-up properly – all springs scales 10, ARB front 30, rear 10 and physics values behind the numbers are exactly 3x as much at front.
- Similar with ride height scales, plus rear ride-height fine adjustment possible.
- Car raised so it’s not running on its dampers.
- Differential is less “tight”.
- Underside colliders raised to allow better steering on grass and in gravel. Car can still bottom-out.
- Tyre change/repair times sped up & fuelling slowed down for league purposes.